There's a lot that goes into getting a puppy! So it's important that you're as informed as possible before making this exciting, life-altering decision. You and your new puppy will be learning quite a many different things throughout your new journey together, but before you even decide to get a pup, here are a few important things you will want to consider. Costs: Though no one can put a price on the joy that a dog can bring you, you still want to make sure you're not breaking the bank to meet your pup's needs. The costs you will need to consider strongly are veterinary bills, planned (vaccinations, surgeries such as neutering/spaying), and sadly unplanned treatments as well. Private training and group training classes are also strongly recommended and may vary in pricing depending on which dog training school you go with. Add to this potential daycare and dog sitting services. Food, supplies (water bowls, bedding, crate, blothing), and toys are all also additional and essential costs you will need to spend in a variety of amounts regularly. The specific pricing varies strongly on your region/area so be sure to do some research, ask around and write some numbers down! Outlets/enrichment needs: Working with as many pet parents as we do, a common factor we've encountered is a proper lack of either understanding or considering of what all dogs need when it comes to enrichment. Just like you and I, dogs are capable and in strong need of new and different activities to do and learn from on a regular basis. Their brain is capable of achieving amazing things which is what makes dogs man's best friend. And so, it's important to note that whether you get a chihuahua or a husky, all dogs require having regular access to activities where they get to use their body and brain, to their heart's content. Socialization outlets: Dogs are one of the most social animals on the planet, and the last thing you want is to raise a dog or puppy that has a tough time in social settings. This is not to say that dogs don't have their own individuality and some enjoy socializing more than others because they do, but in order to get to the point where you're discovering what your dog likes and wants, you first need to provide them with what they need. And what all dogs and puppies need are safe, controlled socialization outlets that they can get the most out of, and come home feeling like they got that itch of theirs scratched. Dog sitting/boarding: Your work schedule (and how it may potentially change with time) is a very important factor to consider but as a result, you may need to have lined yourself up with options that will allow you to have someone care and watch over your dog when you're not available. Personality and compatibility: This is an important item to consider and at the same one the hardest to prepare for because there's simply no way to know exactly what your puppy's personality will be, especially as it may change and vary with time. However what you can take into close consideration is the type of personalities of your puppy's parents, as there is a strong possibility that your pup will draw from both, sometimes more one than the other. But even then, you want to make sure that you consider and mentally prepare for the possibility that even though you were hoping to bring home a calm and easy going puppy, that what you may end up getting is a very eager, gogogo pooch! Lifestyle: This last point ties in closely with the previous one. Though you can prepare to make the most of your pup's personality, where we've found that a lot of pet parents struggle (which is what unfortunately leads to a lot of dogs needing to be rehomed) is when they realize that their lifestyle perhaps doesn't match their dog's needs and wants. This is a tough situation to navigate but if you take a close look at your current lifestyle and how much it could potentially be affected by your dog's personality, needs, and wants, you can then more adequately make the decision of getting a puppy.

Prevention is the best method to handle any unwanted behaviour or issues when training your dog. Just by nature, dogs are intuitive experts at quickly assessing and reacting to different situations. This behaviour varies with how they have learned to handle and respond to daily activities, such as going for walks, interacting with other animals, or meeting new people. When it comes to teaching your dog how to act around children, you want to make sure that you’re doing everything you can to help your pup create only positive and trusting associations with kids. Respect is crucial for both parties, for just as you need to teach your kids to respect the dog, you must teach the dog to respect the children. But how can you guarantee that the first introduction goes well? There are three simple and useful exercises you can follow when introducing your dog to children. 1. Distance = Respect Dogs, like most animals, give distance to each other show as a sign of respect for another’s space. Sometimes, people misinterpret this as though the dog is acting afraid and avoiding the perceived danger. While that can be true, it’s important that you first look at the dog’s body language to determine whether he/she is showing respect or fear. It's important to make sure this level of respect is being reciprocated by having the kids give the dog some distance upon their first meetings/interactions. It’s important that the dog knows your kids aren’t a threat, so help them do their best to avoid looking, touching or talking to the dog if they're unsure of his feelings. Especially make sure that eye contact is avoided at this point; most children don’t know how to read a dog’s body language and may mistake or overlook signs of insecurity, fear, excitement, etc. Proceed on your pup’s terms. Don’t have the kids come to your dog, but just patiently wait for your pup to feel relaxed enough to approach them. It might take some time, but all dogs will let you know when it's time for friendly and calm introductions. One thing that is not necessary is for the kids to hold their hands out for the dog to smell. At this point, it’s actually better if the kids refrain from any type of contact until the pup is completely calm. By doing this, you’ll ensure that the dog’s initial feeling when meeting children in the future will always involve staying calm... which, of course, can then escalate into fun playtime when it’s appropriate and on your terms, not the dog's. 2. Getting a Head Start Like all animals, dogs simply react. They don’t exactly contemplate the meaning of their actions, ponder over nor plan what they will do next. If another dog or person approaches, he will react in the way that he thinks is best, right then and there. Remember, each dog is an individual and will react differently to situations. This reaction is contingent on their past experiences. Whether you are introducing your dog to a new or familiar activity, such as meeting children, you will want to do everything you can to start your dog off on the right paw. You can do this by draining as much physical energy out of your pup in preparation. How you go about this will be contingent on the dog's level of energy and what he enjoys using his energy towards. Running, playing tug of war, fetching, and so on. This will really help your dog be in a calmer and more relaxed mindset when the kids come to your home or to the location where they’ll be meeting your dog, without you feeling like you need to talk or shout your dog into calmness.. 3. Side By Side Unlike us, most dogs don’t have actual jobs or schools where they go and learn to form relationships with others every day of their lives. Still, animals in general will do everything in a group or pack; this is especially true for social animals like dogs and other members of the canine family. This includes the simplest of things such as eating together, playing together, and, of course, hunting together. A tightly knit group of friends will more easily work well together, but when meeting a new member, most animals will try their best to avoid one-on-one confrontations if possible. Often, they’ll simply turn and walk in the same direction as the new member and walk alongside them. This begins to form a bond, similar to you and I walking with our loved ones and holding hands. So when you have children that are coming by to meet your dog, the best option is for you to take everyone out for a walk. This will not only help tire out your dog, but it will also prevent the children from getting over-excited since they’ll be focused on the walk itself. Just by walking with others, your dog will learn to trust new people more easily. By focusing on this productive activity, your dog will learn that calmly following your lead results in rewards, whether that reward is food, treats, playtime, or simply the walk itself.

Most people think of puppy socialization in terms of meeting other dogs, puppies and people but it's so much more than that! A well socialized dog is one that knows how to make good and safe decisions in social settings. This includes everything from being handled, to following your guidance regardless of different sounds, smells and sights around them. Add to the mix touching and stepping on different textures and objects. Taking baby steps, do your best to expose your pup to everything and anything, starting with everything you can think of in and around your home, until it's 100% safe for them to spend more and more time outside in the real world!

I've got two males who I just got this weekend, and we are working on their transition. The biggest question is trying to get them on my family schedule. Before it was like a 24/7 buffet. Now I'm feeding them three times a day and they don't finish their food. Any recommendations? Should I leave it out for 30 minutes and then take it away until the next feeding? I kennel them for the night minus a bathroom break or two and a little during the day if nobody's home. I didn't want to leave food in the kennel. I'm trying to keep them cleaner. I'm avoiding most human food until they are on a schedule. This is a very good question. And when it comes to multiple dogs, it's really the same thing, as with one. Ultimately it's going to be about how you provide them with their food puppies, unless, the daily intake, which is where I would double check with your vet as to how much you want to feed them, in a day. And this is where I would look into, that daily amount to potentially, not so much. I know the mentioned schedule here, they want to get the puppy on their family schedule, but when it comes to feeding, dogs don't necessarily have a schedule. Per se. So I would really look into what their daily intake is and more than anything, how I can provide them with the food that they need to be eating within that one day. And so my main recommendation would be exactly that. I would look into how they're currently getting their food. If it's from a bowl, then chances are, and it's funny that it's happening with both puppies, but chances are that they are both just not that interested in their food because of how it's being provided. Through the bowl. They don't indicate the age here, but if you have a very young puppy, an 8, 9, 10 weeks cold, then a slow feeder will do it. Just switching to a slow feeder as opposed to a bowl. And I'm assuming that we're using a bowl here. If not, then potentially, some other enrichment ideas. The ones that I'm gonna mention have already been tried, but, going from a bowl to a slow feeder. To a puzzle. Snuffle mat is definitely the way to go as far as trying new things to get your dogs to eat and enjoy their food, you can even go as far as using a cardboard box and putting towels inside. You can put towels inside old towels with. Their Kongs with their snuffle mats, with their food puzzles make the activities even more engaging and provide, as a result, a lot of mental stimulation for your dogs, which will then make them want to take a little nap afterward, but increase the value of the food that they get because of how it's being delivered. And so that would be my main recommendation as far as. How to feed them. I don't think it's going to be a matter of leaving food out for 30 minutes and then taking it away. That is a recommendation that I see a lot, but I don't personally suggest it because the main issue is that your dog doesn't really have an interest in food in the first place, and you don't wanna really swap that out. going from no interest to, feeling scared or worried and eating out of that reason, meaning eating because they're worried that the food is gonna go away. You want them to eat because they enjoy it and because it feels good, right? And so if you create fun scenarios to deliver the food that they get, and again, supplements. Puzzles boxes, a lot of DIY, options available, you can check my link below on my description so you can really see a lot of different DIY options that will not cost you a thing and will use what you already have at home if you make sure, that you are providing those during feeding time, then. Chances are that your puppy is gonna be naturally, in, in a curious, positive way, be a lot more interested in their food. So if ever you have to use a bowl or something that's not too engaging, they're still going to be likely to eat at that point because you've associated food. With a very fun activity and a very good feeling. And so, that's where I would go as opposed to leaving it out for a little bit and taking it away. I don't really recommend that. I recommend feeding them in fun and engaging ways so that they really look forward to their food and will eat their daily intake. "I kennel them for the night minus a bathroom break or two." As far as leaving food in the kennel, it's not generally something I recommend, I'm fairly strict when it comes to using a dog's crater or their kennel because at a young age, I wanna make sure that we associate it as much as possible with rest and food doesn't necessarily equate to that. It can lead to that if you want to leave food in their kennel, I would do it in a way that is a little bit more, engaging and that's where I would turn to, a Kong, a frozen Kong with a bit of food in there can be something that I really, really like using. Be. Cause a Kong that is provided when a puppy has already done their activities, their engagement routine, physical, and mental socialization, and stimulation. A Kong is a little bit like the pacifier at the end of the day, at the end of the activities that are going to help them soothe and relax just by. Nibbling at it just by chewing it. Just by knowing it, your puppy is going to not just get, the remainder of food that you want them to have, but is also going to mellow out as a result, and they're already in their crate, so they're then likely to just fall asleep and just rest in their crate as a result.

Dog trainers provide group courses, drop-in classes, private training, and even online training. All in the hopes of helping pet parents meet their dog's needs but ultimately to have dogs behave and act in the way that their owners want & like. And so when pet parents think of that desired goal, there's perhaps a question they should ask themselves before picking up the phone and reaching out to their neighborhood trainer: "Why is my dog doing this particular behaviour that I dislike?" The answer to this question is a lot simpler than you may think. And if we begin to explore this motivator further and further, it can help us not only better understand but also relate to and appreciate our dogs, and thus make even better use of the training tools, approaches, techniques, and lessons we'll learn along the way. And so what is the magic answer to why your dog does what he does? Simply put, it's because it works. Dogs are no different than you when it comes to making choices and decisions. We both have the capacity and will to choose what's the most beneficial and in our best interest. And this is why, we can then more easily begin to understand that our dogs do, repeat and practice both wanted and unwanted (by us) behaviours on a daily basis. Let's go through a few examples to further bring this to light. Let's start with digging. Digging is a, more often than not, fun activity that the majority of dogs will be inclined to do naturally, and/or because they've seen another dog (or sometimes even a human) do it. This exercise can work in your dog's mind as a way to relieve stress, physical energy, or just an entertaining way to pass the time! For other dogs, it's an activity that ensures them that they'll get your attention once you see your dog digging in your backyard, where you may not want them to. Regardless of the reason behind your dog's digging, ultimately it's a reason that makes it so this behaviour works in your dog's mind in achieving some kind of goal, and thus they then feel the need to repeat it. What about barking? A dog's barking is a handy tool when it comes to communicating a myriad of feelings, emotions, and messages. Some can be as simple as "I'm very excited and barking helps me indicate that to those around me!" and in response to that, another dog can hear, understand, and respond in a way that fulfills the first dog's needs to get some excitement redirected back at him, likely in the form of play and engagement. It's easy to see in this scenario why a dog would try to repeat this behaviour under these circumstances. In other cases, a dog can bark at another across the street to let them know that they're too close for their comfort. This type of bark is one mailman and delivery carriers experience often and is even more often repeated by dogs, purely because after the barking starts, the next thing that happens is the person or dog in question likely gives them the space and distance they were asking for. And so it makes sense in a dog's mind, as to why they would continue to practice this behaviour. These examples and more are among many that help us understand that dogs don't do what they do for no reason. When they're young they try things on their own (which is where our guidance/training comes in best to redirect, prevent and manage unwanted choices) and if what they tried worked for them in one way or another, you can bet you'll see them do it again and again!

My dog isn't really eating her food, but still drinks her water. Sometimes she'll eat out of my hand or I'll have to sit right next to her. We feed her Authority and she had it since she was a puppy and she loved it. Do we have to try different foods? She has also been in heat. That's a very good question. So I'm assuming that we're not dealing with a very young puppy here, likely, an adolescent, young adult pup, or an adult dog, in this case, there are two things that you want to consider. One is, if a dog is not eating their food, it's not totally unheard of, especially with adolescent young adult dogs they can definitely go through phases even when you do everything right. And dogs, will, it, it's not at all rare for them to go without eating for long periods. A dog that is hungry will eat if you are concerned. And this is where I would first start by reaching out to your vet. If your vet is not picking up on anything with regards to your dog's health or any concerns on that in, in that area, then I would either rule it as, My dog is likely going through a phase where he or she's just not eating the food that I normally have. If they're still eager to eat treats or very interested in the human food that you have, then that could be an indicator that it's time to change food. And, or mix it with something else. That's where I would then again, go back to your vet. If your vet is recommending the same, the same type of food that she already has, then I would definitely consider reaching out to another vet. That way you can get a second opinion, potentially even a third. And a pro tip that I have is, joining a Facebook group for the breed of your dog. Oftentimes, even, better than trainers, better than vets, better than, anyone else. The people that are growing up with the breed that you have likely have a lot more information, and experience and know exactly what will work for that breed because they live with it. So consider joining a Facebook group. You can just type it up on Facebook and find a group that corresponds with your dog's breed and start a conversation there so that people can let you know what they feed their dog. How often they feed, and how they do it, and then you'll definitely see some common answers so you can go based off of that. As far as your dog eating out of your hand, or you having to sit right next to her, that can let me know that, potentially the food that you're giving your dog or feeding time in general isn't something that provides much for your dog. And I don't mean that. The food you're giving her is not good or that she doesn't like it. But feeding time is really a meaningful activity for dogs and us as well, we feed after we've had a few hours at work. During lunch, we feed. Once we've come back from work, we feed, we go to restaurants and we pay, we share things. It's a very engaging activity. And if it isn't the case for your dog, I would really look as to how she's getting her food on a daily basis because, unfortunately, most pet parents that I work with, the way that they feed through a bowl, and that is definitely the easiest, most convenient way to feed. But I would look at alternatives to that. Even just a snuffle mat, a food puzzle, or a slow feeder can be okay, but unless your puppy is eight weeks old, nine weeks old, 10 weeks old, a slow feeder probably isn't gonna provide much as far as enrichment, mental stimulation. So I would really consider snuffle mat a food puzzle as a way to feed her food. You can also, of course, do activities with her. It sounds like the activity she's gotten you to do is to sit next to her and feed her from your hand. So, it sounds silly, but to her it probably provides a little bit more stimulation than just out of her bowl. And so I would take that as a very good indicator that it's probably time to look into. Some activities that we can incorporate feeding time with to make her food, not just fulfill her stomach, but also her need, to do things, we don't have the breed here, but she likely wants to problem solve. She likely has a skillset that she wants to do, and if she's not really getting to do it in other areas or maybe, areas are not. Tied to food, now is the time so that we can reassociate the meaning to food, so that she can then enjoy even more so as a result and hopefully eat all of her food, her daily intake. And the last item on that is that she is in heat. That can very much play a role, that can affect her mood, her demeanor, her behavior. Again, I don't know how young or old she is. But if she is young, still around adolescent hood, young adult. Chances are you'll still be able to get her to eat if you change the meaning of food, or at least start there as opposed to just thinking that you need to change food, or upgrade her food to something different. Change how you provide the food because in my opinion, that is the most important element when it comes to dogs eating. It's how they get every piece that they have that you have available for them. And again, snuffle mats. Food puzzles. Kongs are great, but I would save that for the end when we want her to just lick and chew on something. But as far as the actual activity, snuffle mats, food puzzles, I would also consider, using car boxes to put the snuffle mats, put the food puzzles inside of them. Maybe even add some towels, add some more cardboard to make the activity even more engaging for her. And that of course depends on her drive. If she has little to no drive, then make the activity very easy for her to do, and then she's still going to gain the benefit of feeling good problem-solving and associating that with food.

I just adopted a two-year-old pup a few weeks ago, and he is not socialized. What are the best tips to socialize an adult dog? He does great when walking until he sees a person or a dog he doesn't know. He cowers down and tries running in the opposite direction. I've tried treats and toys to redirect him, but he will not show any attention to me. Or he'll freeze in place and bark. And I can't get him to walk in the other direction with me. He will use all his weight to stay in one spot. So what we have here is a two-year-old that got rescued, a few weeks ago, that is not socialized and it sounds like he's putting the brakes when they're out on walks. This can of course be very frustrating when you're hoping to socialize, go for walks, bathroom breaks because it sounds like this dog is just ready to freeze. And isn't really ready to move forward or isn't really ready to handle outdoor situations that he is in. We don't have a lot more information other than that. But this is pretty common as far as a dog that, whether it's a rescue or a puppy, a dog that's having a tough time coping with his environment and has not yet spent too much time with the pet parent. To build that bond that's going to help him choose to move forward. Just as it's stated here.   I can't get him to walk the other direction with me.  So what she's referring to, and I don't know if she's purposely trying to do this, but, when we're walking with a dog and whether they're reactive or just unsure or, they don't know how to handle the environment, we'll do what we call a reset. Which means we're gonna help the dog take space by walking in the other direction to get them to refocus on us. This is something that's actually, I'm glad that, this person has tried, but it sounds that he's putting all his way to stay in that one spot and that's where the problem can very much lie. So what I would say to this, Is if I'm walking with a dog where I don't yet have, that much of a strong bond, cuz it, it's only been a few weeks. A few weeks is enough to develop a bit of a bond. However, if they're going through scenarios that are maybe too challenging for both of them as described here, they're not really getting, Anywhere when it comes to walking, they're not really sure how to handle it. What I would recommend instead is making the walks a lot easier. There may perhaps be some expectations as far as, how long the walk needs to be or how far they need to go with a rescue or an eight-week-old pup. I would keep the walk very short and sweet, because not only will it make it easier for the dog to navigate, To feel as though they can do it, but also make it so they feel as though they can do it with you. And so that's what's gonna be very important here when we're working on building the relationship of a dog with their new handler or pet parent. We wanna make sure that is done. In a way that feels successful to them both dogs very much learn by association and so do we, but especially dogs. And so if the walk is something that's uncomfortable, and of course, it's being done with this pet parent, then it all jumbles together. And so what I would do is keep the walks very short. Very sweet. I would maybe try to figure out at which point during the walk, perhaps it's five minutes in, or, it's five meters into the walk or two feet out. At what point is my dog maybe letting me know or showing me that he is, a little concerned, weary? Perhaps afraid, unsure, because that's when I would start doing the resets, which is what they're trying here. They're probably trying to do them when it's too late. When the dog's already barking over threshold, overwhelmed by then, it's too late and the dog just is just shutting down at that point. So what I would do instead, is again, keep those walks very short, where our reset should, in theory, be a lot more successful then, and what that might look like practically in the first few days. Or even just the first day where you want to go for a walk. Other than the bathroom break, hopefully, if you have a backyard, you can have your dog go there. But even then, if you can just take a few steps to the nearest grass patch. Have their bathroom break be done there, I would then go back home and then maybe an hour later, half an hour later, go for another little walk, but, don't make it anywhere further than the previous one. Keep it very short and sweet and make it so that they're enjoying every step of it by keeping it short, keeping it in the way where they come back home feeling as though this wasn't so bad. Maybe next time I'll go a little bit further out. But this has to be built with time and this is what's gonna let your dog know. When I'm on a walk with you, it doesn't feel too bad, it doesn't feel too bad walking with you, and so I'm gonna be a little bit more responsive to your guidance. This person mentioned that they're trying to use treats, to redirect and toys, and those are all very good attempts. But the fact that they haven't worked lets me know that bond is not necessarily there yet, but even more so that the dog is probably already over threshold, meaning the dog has already, for a little while now, it could be a few seconds to a few minutes, has already been potentially displaying signs of discomfort or feeling unsure, weary, but the handler probably has not picked up on that. And so by the moment, or at the point where the handler does pick up on it, it's potentially too late. So I would definitely go back into baby steps. Pretend as though this two-year-old dog is actually a two-month-old pup, and break things down in ways where they feel successful, both to you and your dog. Because ultimately the amazing thing with dogs is they're never gonna ask you why or when they can get to that next point. An eager dog will, maybe do that but then you know, you can move on to the next one, one that isn't too sure. Take your time. The more you can. Be in the moment. Slow down. Just be with them. Their own curiosity is going to show you that they're ready for the next step. But even then, just take it slow. Take it one step at a time. If something seems too difficult, make it easier. Once it feels too easy, then take that next step. Your dog is not in a rush and this is what's going to let them know. Hey, this person does listen to me. This person does hear me out. And so that will very much strengthen your bond and help you guys overcome the challenges that will come later on once your dog is maybe in scenarios where, there's a dog that just came outta nowhere and this is very difficult. That's when your dog is most likely to go. Okay, that's challenging. But I know that if I check in with you or if I just listen to, your cues that I'll be okay. So let's go ahead and do that. But until then, Keep things short and sweet, break them down into what you feel is doable for both you and your dog, and take it from there. Okay?

No matter how cute our dogs are, friendly or how happy they are that we have guests over, it’s a smart and safe idea to help prevent them from feeling the need to jump at the door or people. Even if we find that our dogs are always excited to greet people, there are still ways that we can help make this a pleasant and enjoyable experience for all involved. And this is rather easy to accomplish if you set your home up for success! Practice the following steps: 1. Set a specific time for your guests to arrive. Do your best to minimize surprise visits. That’s because a planned visit is one you can prepare for. This first and foremost allows you to provide your dog with physical and mental stimulation during the day and prior to the arrival so that your dog will feel as mellow and relaxed as possible around your guests. 2. The leash is the best way to avoid confronting your dog at the door. Use the leash by clipping it to your dog 10-15 minutes prior to your guest arriving. Once your guests get there, have another family member tend to the door while you guide your dog away. Depending on your dog’s demeanour and personality, you may want to provide your dog with enough space to not feel the need to worry or feel overexcited with people coming over. Even though you might prevent your dog from jumping, the jumping itself can be a symptom that your dog just doesn’t know what to do in that instance, so make sure that you’ve planned for some activities that you can do, or potentially having your dog stay at someone else’s home if you feel that your dog is going to find it too difficult to settle. 3. Guide your dog towards your guest using the leash. Instead of asking your dog to sit or to stop jumping, use their leash to help them walk away with you. This will guarantee that your dog doesn’t get to jump and repeat the unwanted behaviour (the more your dog repeats a behaviour, the more successful it becomes to them). Afterwards, don’t let your dog off their leash because they may still run toward your guest and jump. Instead, continue walking away with them while someone else tends to the door, and as you feel that your dog is calming down on their own, you can then start walking closer to your guests. If your dog starts pulling towards your guests, which indicates that he may jump, continue walking away. What you are essentially doing is helping your dog calm down and regulate his own emotions by walking and letting him take space. Eventually this is a behaviour that your dog can practice and be rewarded for, as opposed to jumping.

Here are the main reasons to let your dog sniff on walks! 1. It’s the dog version of scrolling through social media to see what’s up, who has been where, and what’s going on in the area. 2. It’s a far better choice as opposed to barking, lunging, pulling, and jumping and thus it’s worth encouraging . 3. It’s natural! All animals do this naturally, as a way to get to know their environment best, through their nose, no different than we take in our environment through our eyes. 4. It provides easy mental enrichment while on walks which leads to a more mellow and calm dog. 5. It lets you know your dog is feeling relaxed enough to put their nose down and sniff instead of being on the lookout with their eyes.

Interested in rescuing or fostering? Look for the following green flags to make sure you’re working with the best rescue organization: 1. You get to speak with a team member of theirs via email, text, or phone call throughout the inquiring/interest process. It’s important that you can feel as though there’s someone you can speak to, to put your mind at ease should you have any concerns, before or after you adopt your rescue. 2. Have a meet & greet with your potential rescue. A lack of a meet-and-greet session should be a big red flag. It’s important for the organization to properly guide you through the introduction to any of their dogs and asses whether they think it’s still a good idea to proceed and how. 3. They require proof of training. The best organizations will require that you’ve purchased a training session with a positive reinforcement trainer, or at the very least include it as part of their agreement, soon after the adoption. 4. Have the organization provide you with photos and videos of the dog in question around people (especially strangers) and other dogs. An undersocialized dog can require a lot of training support onwards and that’s okay, just make sure you know in full detail how your dog does in social environments. 5. They provide you with a trial period. The above points should set you off on a great start with your dog. However a lot can change during the first few days or even weeks of adopting your rescue, and being aware of this should encourage you to inquire about a trial period and its length, prior to bringing home your new rescue.