"How to Stop My Puppy From Biting on the Pee Pad?" Any tips on how to get my puppy to not bite the pee pad when she's in the crate /playpen with it? She's making good progress with crate training. That's a very good question. I, see this a lot where, either a crate or playpen will be the area where the puppy is, and they, have right there their pee pads as well. As far as a crate goes, unless it's a really large crate and a very small dog, I don't typically recommend putting a pee pad inside a crate, mainly because, of this scenario where your puppy can either use it as a bed or use it as a toy, it's a little bit more difficult to manage because there's not as much room. And so the association of the Pee Pad being strictly for peeing on it, is a little bit more blurred and not as clear to your puppy in that. In that amount of space. So what I recommend instead is sticking to the playpen. To, have it, have the pee pad in it, and if your puppy is chewing it, whether you've decided to use a crate or playpen, it could be that they're either bored, they want to do some activities, so meaning when your puppy's being placed in the playpen or in their crate, It's likely not the right time for them to be in the crate, so what I'd recommend instead is doing activities so that your puppy's going to go in the crate or playpen to rest. If you're using the playpen, you can still have the pee pad in there, but once your puppy's going into their playpen to rest, they're more likely to not. Feel the need to bite or to chew on the pee pad and rather just use it when they feel the need to go, when they feel the need to relieve themselves. If you are doing enrichment activities, if you're doing, socialization, physical activities, or mental activities, and you're finding that your puppy is still chewing on the pee pad, then that will let me know that your puppy is looking for something to nibble, chew on as a means to just sort of soothe potentially even teeth and gnaw on something, so I would make sure of that. Just as much as the pee pad is in the playpen. I would also play some options that come out only when it's time for my puppy to rest. So for example, a Kong, stuffed and frozen with something inside of it. A chew toy, a ball, something that my puppy can gnaw, and again, that I bring out when I know it's time for them to use it inside their playpen. That way it's not just always sitting there and potentially becoming boring. And, that could also be why your puppy is choosing to, if there are already options available there for your pup. If they're still choosing to chew and bite on the p pep, potentially that gets them something meaning If they bite it, maybe they get a reaction from you. Which could also indicate that they're feeling bored. But usually, if you are providing enrichment outlets, then the chewing on the pee pad, the biting, it could just be, Hey, I just want something to nibble on. So, have the pee pad there ready and the playpen, but also have some options for a puppy to. Chew like a Kong and bring it up when you know that it's time for a puppy to chew on something. That way they'll choose the Kong over the pee pad.

How Do I Stop My Dog From Pulling on Walks? To teach your dog how to walk nicely outside you'll need patience, walking at the right time (when there are as few distractions as possible and when you and your dog are feeling connected to one another), reinforcing the type of walking you're happy with, and using harm-free dog walking tools. Let's start with the most important part.. you and your dog's safety! It's important that we prioritize you and your dog's safety to ensure that you're all feeling happy and safe about tomorrow's walk. What's number 1 on my list of to-do's when it comes to dog walking safety is considering a dog walking harness, more precisely the Freedom (No-Pull) Harness. Before I share with you a little more about it and why I recommend it, let's first tackle the most common question dog trainers get about harnesses: Don't harnesses encourage more pulling? Like with sled dogs? The short answer is no. If you're not already using a harness and you're reading this, chances are your dog is already pulling on their collar and that in its own can be harmful to your dog's neck, as well as ineffective. If you're using a harness and your dog is still pulling, this is mostly due to a number of key factors that we'll touch on in this article. The solution to dog walking doesn't lie in the tools alone, but rather in How and When we use them. The Freedom Harness is currently my go-to harness because it comes with not only a back clip but also a front one. This allows me to use a leash, and with the least amount of pressure or force, guide my dog's chest toward me in order to be able to redirect and guide him. Having two clips instead of one can be amazing for heavy pullers (especially with larger breeds) as these harnesses can be purchased in tandem with a double-clip leash for further support. We greatly recommend getting this or another harness that shares this dual clip feature which will also help prevent neck injuries from the use of any type of collar around your dog's neck. With that out of the way, let's focus on the lesson itself! The first exercise I suggest that all pet parents practice, whether they have a 10-week-old puppy or a 10-year-old dog is the umbilical cord exercise. This exercise consists of having your dog walk with you indoors for short periods of time, as you introduce minor but multiple distractions (like toys, or sounds, and food) they can practice ignoring by walking with you, as you reward that choice to walk on. To make this even easier and more convenient for you, you can tie your dog's leash to your waist so your hands are free to reward with treats/kibble and even play some games if needed, to keep your dog's brain engaged. The benefit of this exercise is that you and your dog are practicing in a setting that has the least amount of difficult distractions possible, allowing you both to consistently build a connection that will be beneficial once you're outside and faced with more distractions. You can use your dog's meal to practice this exercise as it also makes for a wonderful mentally stimulating exercise. Follow it with a couple of fetch or tug-and-pull games and you'll have a dog that's then feeling not only more connected to you but mellow as well. This idea of helping your dog feeling mellow and relaxed dog before or during your training sessions, is an important part of the dog walking lesson that'll help prevent your dog from feeling the need to pull on walks. Most pet parents, unfortunately, see their dog's walk as their main outlet for exercise, however in my opinion this is the biggest reason for the pulling. You will find that if you use the walk as a cool-down activity, following mentally and physically-stimulating activities, your dog will start to associate the walk as an activity that is done to further relax, and simply bond. As opposed to an activity where they need to continuously search for ways to expand their energy. Got your harness? Got your dog doing little walks indoors where you're rewarding them for checking in and choosing to walk nicely? Awesome! Next comes the part where we go from Level 1 to Level 2 and for every dog level 2 is different. For some dogs, the next level might be simply walking near the door before you feel as though you have completely lost the connection you had and their attention, and it that has instead shifted towards the excitement that the door might open. For other dogs (particularly young ones) you will be able to go through a few different levels quite rapidly. Such as touching the door knob, turning it, opening the door a little, a little more, and so on. All while continuing to walk indoors. The key thing with your dog's levels is not what they are, but rather How and When you decide to go through them. Without realizing it, you and your dog have gone through (or potentially skipped through) all of these levels often, because you need to take your dog out for their bathroom break pronto, and you understand their need to go for a walk. But if you came back indoors after their potty break and restarted the walk indoors, you will see that your dog will do his or her best to make sense of the change in the usual routine by checking in with you, which is when you want to reward before going to the next level. As you go through different levels, pay close attention to how you're feeling, to how your dog is feeling, and whether you think you are both in tune with one another and connected. You should then be able to safely proceed to the next level and make it further into your walk. If you don't, then the best you can do is keep your walks short and sweet, by walking your dog in and out of your home, and a little further each time, the more you feel your bond becomes stronger with each step. That's because the opposite of a dog pulling is a dog that is choosing to focus its energy and attention on you! Once you make it further and further out, you will inevitably run into situations, people, or dogs that will be all too distracting and this is normal, and okay. Dogs feel and react like any other individual can, and there's just no way of knowing exactly how they will react in environments you can't fully control. So what do you do in those, more challenging scenarios? Take a breather, channel in your patient self and help your dog "reset" by walking back closer to where you were previously, to help your dog feel calm once more, to wait for the moment when your dog checks in and reconnects with you and get that amazing tasty treat reward AND your attention, as you keep walking!

Over the years, as a dog trainer, I’ve had multiple opportunities to work with new puppy families of different backgrounds, ways of thinking, and experiences when it comes to dogs and raising a puppy. But one thing they all have in common is that they thought that I would be coming to their home to teach their pup new tricks when in reality it was them who I was teaching in order to better understand their new four-legged friend, so that they can, in turn, be understood. During those sessions, we did get chances where I would demonstrate a few tricks and tips that I wanted them to practice with their pup on a daily basis. One of them is my favourite lesson that I know any pup or dog can learn given the opportunity, and that is to wait. Waiting is something all animals value and know to do and when to do it. However, in our rushed everyday life, it seems like waiting and being patient is not only something we lose from our daily habits but as a result, also make it so our dogs don’t practice waiting for something either. Sure you might have them sit and wait for their food, but did you know that you can and should be doing this as often as you can? Not only during mealtime. At such a young age of 9-10 weeks, when I work with a pup one of the first things I do is grab their food bowl with one hand while I shake it a little with the other to get the scent and sound going. This gets the pup’s attention and as they try a little jump or paw at the bowl that’s in my hands, I simply wait and don’t say a word until the pup learns in a matter of 2-3 seconds that I am there to reward him for calmly waiting for their food in front of me, before I start sharing a piece or two with them, still without using a word. When pups are first born, from day 1 they start to practice waiting. Even if it’s for a few seconds, they’re waiting for their mom to lay on her side and share her milk with them. This requires patience on both fronts while providing the biggest reward they can get. This is all done without little to no verbal cues, but rather silence, patience, and the instinctual need to survive while figuring out just how. This is instilled in all dogs and any opportunity we get to practice the activity of encouraging the action of waiting for something will always be welcomed and cherished by all involved.

Have you noticed how most of your dog’s communication is non-verbal? The majority of it is physical and carefully done through body language, all while they read our own body language as well. Yet at the same time, we’re very fortunate that dogs work so hard to learn and understand as many of our verbal cues as possible. Whether it’s through classes or simply from what we teach them at home. But that said, here’s something you can practice next weekend to better improve your communication skills and understanding of what your dog is saying! It’s simple: practice a full, non-verbal weekend where you use no words or verbal cues to address or guide your dog. That’s right! Take a weekend to understand your dog like never before by practicing and enhancing your communication skills with your dog by only using gestures, your hands, signals, and your overall body language to let your dog know what you need and want! Doing this can result in either a mere and fun weekend where you discover fun ways to express yourself to your dog or you can also develop a more in-depth understanding of what a day in your dog’s life is like, as they communicate with us without any words or sounds (at least in any that come in the form of a language we can translate!). Either way, I can guarantee if you practice this often, you will find your dog will with time more easily understand what you are saying as he or she will have only your body language to focus and feed off of, as opposed to what your body language may be saying, while your words or tonality may be unintentionally saying something else.

I'm debating whether to get my dog a snuffle mat or a food puzzle for when I go out. My dog figured out a puzzle toy way too quickly, and I'm concerned about leaving her with the smaller pieces. Though she only mouths things, doesn't chew them. This is a very good question. When it comes to snuffle mats and puzzle toys, I love them both. As far as behavior and when I'll use them. Putting aside what the dog prefers usually, dogs that enjoy a snuffle mat will enjoy a food puzzle and vice versa. But as far as if I really wanted to get specific as to how I would use them and when, if I have a dog that is feeling very overwhelmed, very, aroused, very excited, doesn't really know how to settle. I likely won't go towards a puzzle just because a puzzle usually a lot of them will have or require that your dog uses their body a little bit and not so much, their mouth or potentially where you have to carry, move a few things, but also, their paws, their claws to open drawers. A lot of puzzles will have those. So if a dog is feeling overwhelmed or over-tired, potentially. I'd rather switch to a snuffle mat because that's a little bit more about snuffling, just using their nose, just figuring out where the food is and just having to move any fabric to get to it. I would use a snuffle mat in that instance, more so than a puzzle toy. But as far as general enrichment, I would use both, and I would maybe if a puppy's just waking up or you just. Come back from your walk and your puppies are feeling okay. I would go towards a puzzle toy just to get them engaged with that a little bit more, keep maintaining that excitement that potentially came from the walk. I would go towards a puzzle toy and then to help them wind down, I would do a snuffle mat. As far as which one to leave a dog with, I wouldn't leave a dog with. Either because one, I don't want them to, I know she mentions here, or the person mentions here that their dog is not chewing them, just mouthing. I would still not leave, I would still not feel comfortable leaving my dog with a toy that's not meant to be chewed. Like a Kong would be, a chewable toy or rubber toy or something that's really safe. That's what I would leave them with. and again, I would really only leave them when I know that they've gone what they need. Meaning the puzzles, the snuffer mats, the running fetch, playing ball, doing all those things. It's what I would try before leaving a puppy alone, period. And even then, I would only leave them with a Kong or a toy that is designed for chewing that I know is going to be safe for my dog to be left alone with. as far as difficulties, in terms of. Puzzles versus snuffle mats, usually snuffle mats are a little bit easier. Once a puzzle feels too easy for your dog, you do not have to go out and buy a new one unless it's really completely different potentially one puzzle has the option where your dog needs to use, their paw to open draw drawers, and another one asks your dog to, pull on the little boxes to reveal the treats. Then, Sure. But even then, what I would do first is incorporate the snuffle mats and the puzzle toys into some DIY activities. And that's where I would use a cardboard box. That's where I would grab a big empty box and put some towels in, put the snuffle mat in or the food puzzle in, and make it so my dog has. The scavenger has to snuffle just to get to the mat or the toy, the puzzle toy. And so that's what I would do and I would do those while I'm there so I can supervise, and make sure that everything is safe and make sure that after they're finding it too difficult, I can guide them along the way so that they're not getting frustrated.

We’re all familiar with Kongs and chewing toys and other dog products that allow our pups and dogs to have a designated item or two to chew on. But when is the best time to provide a chewing toy to a dog? Is there ever a bad time? When should a dog get to chew? Let’s see! Let’s start with how to best use dog toys in general! Dog toys like Kongs, balls, tug and pulls toys and more should all have an ideal moment when they should each be used so that you and your dog or pup can get the most out of them. And when is that? It depends entirely on how your pup is feeling. At #DigNoFurther we focus on dog training methods that rely on learning how to best understand a dog’s needs so that they can more easily understand our wants. And what that means is that we want to make sure that we are using the right training tools, ideas, and items at the right moment. This makes all the difference because it’s during these moments that your puppy or dog will start forming an association between how he or she is feeling, then the item/activity that is taking place. Let’s start! Since we’re talking mainly about chew toys like Kongs, the very best moment to use these toys and different types of chewing products is when your dog is feeling calm and at ease. That’s right! There is a big misunderstanding among pet parents that providing a dog, especially a puppy, with a kong or chewing toy will help them find an outlet to focus their energy. And to be honest, this isn’t entirely wrong, however, your best bet is to think of the Kong or chew toy as a human baby pacifier. We use pacifiers with young babies when they’re just about ready to take a nap or just want a little something to help them soothe. A Kong works just like that! A deliciously stuffed Kong can be a great way to redirect your dog away from an unwanted behaviour or help distract them for a moment but if you’re finding that your dog is feeling like he has some physical or mental energy he needs to let out, your best bet instead is to provide him with a proper outlet to that activity. An example of a physically stimulating game would be a game of fetch with obstacles and an example of a mentally stimulating game would be a new and challenging food puzzle. After those fun and enriching activities, it’s only then that you will want to bring out your dog’s Kong from the freezer (perhaps stuffed and frozen with a healthy, vet-recommended dinner/treat). This is because the Kong will then reinforce the fact that your dog is feeling mellow due to the previous activities all while still meeting that need to chew, which will relax him further and likely lead to a nice nap. What you will ultimately achieve through this as well, is a dog that grows up seeing the Kong as an item that comes out only when he is feeling a particular way (that we like) and that it reinforces it while maintaining its high value in your dog’s eyes. This will make it so if you had to visit your vet and/or go for a car ride, for example, and you know that your dog perhaps has a tough time in those scenarios, well what you will find is that Kong will help you communicate and bring forth the feeling you have helped him associate with it previously. Unfortunately what happens with most dogs is the Kong or chewing toy becomes an item that loses meaning or becomes boring because it’s not provided at the right time and/or it’s always available to the dog. Instead, keep it away and only use it When your dog needs it and when your dog will value it the most, especially at a young age! Try this chew toy that is also a slow feeder. It’ll work just like a Kong but the little spikes it has and the way its gaps and holes are designed will make it an engaging little puzzle for your dog to figure out, at the right moment! Give these tips a try and let us know how it goes!

1. Physically and mentally tire your dog before someone's visit. 2. Put your dog's leash on him and tie him to your waist. 3. Once the doorbell rings, walk towards the door. 4. If your dog gets excited before opening the door, walk away together and engage your dog with other things to do like little games. 5. No need to ask him or tell him to follow you just yet, just walk and move forward. 6. Go back to the door and repeat until his interaction with the door is calmer than initially. 7. Open the door to reward your dog's calmness and have your guest not talk, touch or look at him. 8. If your dog jumps, have your guest use his leg to gently but firmly ask your dog to back away. 9. Once your dog is relaxed again, both you and your guest invite your dog to join your interaction.

Myself and other dog trainers I know get asked this question quite often when the topic of harnesses comes up during our training sessions. And to cut to the chase, the short answer is no. But the longer answer is that any tool or product (excluding items designed to inflict pain) you use will require time, practice, patience, and the right training methods to help you and your dog reach your goals together. Should you decide to get a harness and walk your dog with it instead of a collar, an irrefutable argument for harnesses is that they are a far safer option as they relieve your dog's neck of any pressure (especially with growing puppies) as well provide a more secure option to a collar that could potentially slip off or break with enough pulling or pressure. The most ideal harnesses, particularly Freedom (No Pull) Harnesses will come with a clip at the back, as well as the front. Both clips can be used together in unison with a double-clip leash to better guide heavy pullers, and the front clip on its own can also be relied on to guide an eager, happy-go-lucky dog by redirecting their chest and body towards you so that you can further guide them. The back clip can also be used as you work your way to more and better communication with your dog on walks (a must!), but this is where a lot of pet parents will think that harnesses encourage pulling, seeing how sled dogs wear them to do their job and for good reason. Even if you were to not at all consider the suggestion that harnesses make for a better training and walking tool, ultimately if you have a dog that is already pulling on their collar, switching to a harness will at the very least add a layer of safety to your outings.

Getting a puppy? Wondering what you should go shopping for? Let’s go through a list of must-have puppy items (worth considering if you’re getting an older dog too!) that I recommend getting before or after bringing home your new pooch. Cat bell Are we starting the list with a cat product? Yes! Think of a cat bell in the same way as a baby monitor for a newborn baby. A little cat bell on your pup’s collar can let you know when he/she is just getting ready to wake up and perhaps needs to pee, poop, or spend time with you! Responding to a cat bell will prevent your pup from feeling the need to let you know that they need something themselves, through nipping, barking, whining, etc. Who doesn't like to have their needs met without having to ask? While on the topic of bells, what about potty bells by the door? Our thinking is that if you use a cat bell or if you know your pup well, then your dog will likely not need to let you know when they need something. Bells attached to the door can also be a way that very smart dogs can indicate that they're bored and just want to step outside/are in need of attention. All of which is preventable! Collar & harness Even if you don't believe or like using harnesses, either because you're been told that harnesses encourage pulling (which is incorrect), if there is one thing about harnesses that's irrefutable is that harnesses are the safest option for dogs, especially puppies. A properly fit harness is very difficult for a dog to accidentally slip out of. But above all, puppies who wear harnesses are then at zero risk of developing any neck injuries while they're still young because their leash will be clipped to their chest or back, instead of their neck. And safety is simply #1! What about collars? Get one, even if you get a harness, because you want to use harnesses mostly when you're going to take your dog for a walk or go to a social setting. While a collar can be worn for longer periods and hold their relevant tags and information. Pee pads Prior to your pup being ready to start going potty outside, pee pads are still the number 1 option as far as indoor potty training goes. This is because they are easy to clean, meaning they will leave little to no odors behind (unlike grass patches or other options) and the goal will be to stop using pee pads sooner than later, as you get to know your dog's bladder better and better. There are exceptions to this recommendation, however, such as if your puppy or dog has a really tough time not chewing destroying them when they're out (please consult your trainer if this is the case) or if you want to opt for a plastic or fake grass alternative that you can simply wash often, not avoid having to purchase, use, and throw away a large number of pee pads. Crate The way we see a crate should be the same as the way we see our bedroom. It's the place where we go to rest, take a break, calm down, relax, and sleep after a long day of work, or simply when we need a nap! Crate training also encourages pet parents to avoid using the crate as a means of punishment, or giving a dog, especially a puppy, a time out as this can cause frustration for them and they won't always fully understand why they got placed in there unless, you practice guiding them mostly because you know they're feeling sleepy, and are in need of rest. Crate cover Every crate should come with a crate cover! Covers help make your dog's crate feel a little bit more like a den that a dog would burrow into because it's darker and drowns out exterior noise. Perfect for all dogs, as well as puppies and sensitive dogs. You will want to be most mindful with long-haired breeds and dogs who get hot easily, as this can instead make for more of an overly warm room that your dog won't find comfortable. To prevent this, make sure the room in which your dog's crate is in is well ventilated, and that their bedding also helps them feel cool. Want to know what type of bedding is best for your dog's breed? Click here to find and join its corresponding Facebook group where you can talk with pet parents who live with your dog's breed and know better than anyone else! Dog bed Speaking of bedding, selecting the right bed for your dog is key! Especially when you're hoping that your dog will learn to stay on it, particularly if you're not relying on their crate all the time. If you chose to place it inside your dog's crate, our recommendation is that you make sure that it doesn't the inside of the crate in full, so that your dog has the option between laying on their bed or directly on the crate tray. Some dogs like that! Especially when they feel too warm. Portable carrier Yes, this one won't be applicable to all dogs, depending on their breed, but chances are that while your pup is still really young, it will still fit in a portable carrier bag designed for dogs. This is a great means of transportation for them, especially when going to new and very stimulating places like the veterinary or groomer. Not having to worry about walking all the way in can be helpful for a puppy. You can also work and train your puppy to like its carrier by turning it into an outlet for them to snuffle food inside it. Licky mat Licky mats and Kongs are perfect for when puppies have had a chance to play and run around, as well as use their brain to learn new tricks and try out new puzzles, and other mental stimulation games. They're not the best at providing much of a challenge for smart dogs, so be sure to use them to help your puppy lick, relax and mellow out. Kongs/chew toys It's no secret that dogs need to chew, especially when they're still growing. This helps them feel better, soothe and relax. And just like licky mats, it's best to provide them when your dog is feeling mellow and n needs to just have something to nibble on, before a nap or bedtime. The misconception about Kongs and chew toys is that they provide mental enrichment, which they do to a certain extent, especially for very young puppies but as far as problem-solving and mental stimulation, you should look into other options first and have Kongs or chew toys act more like a pacifier for a baby. Tug and pull toys A must! Dogs naturally tug and pull with their bodies when they play with one another, or when they find an object they want to start a game with. It's natural for them and really satisfying. And contrary to popular belief, this isn't something that neither instigates prey drive, 'aggression', or any kind of 'dominance'. If your dog exhibits any of those things, it wouldn't be because of a game that is meant for dogs to feel good playing together, and build trust and companionship, no different than how we see sports and other competition and game-like activities. And speaking of building trust, this also applies to dog-to-human relationships! So get on the ground, grab a tug-and-pull toy, and do your best to get your dog interested in playing a game with you! Do keep it short and sweet but trust us when we say that this will only help in strengthening your bond with your dog, and let them know that it's fun to do things with and for you. Balls Fetch, digging and hiding them, pulling treats out of them are all ball-related activities that dogs love doing with you, but also on their own. Get all different types of balls for your dog and keep them on a rotation, to continuously keep your dog guessing and engaged! Snuffle mats Suffle mats are a human-made recreation of a dog's grass-like environment where they would scavenge and search for bits of food to eat. Bringing home a snuffle mat for your dog and even going as far as using it to replace his or her dog bowl is something your dog will thank you for. It's also a great way to help them burn energy, slow down their eating, and slow down their energy as a whole, especially after a long, over-stimulating day. Food puzzles Compared to snuffle mats, food puzzles are a more challenging, generally plastic-made, snuffling and scavenging option for dogs. Typically much more difficult and problem solving-like than snuffle mats, these are great for feeding your dog, slowing them down, but above all providing them with a very engaging exercise for their brain on a daily basis. Getting a more challenging level to start instead of an easy one is recommended, as you can always find ways to make it easy for your dog and go from there without having to purchase multiple levels. Doggy Water bottles Water bottles are my preferred method of giving my pup water (unless I need to be away from them for long periods of time) as opposed to water bowls, mainly because it makes it easier to keep track of their water intake (preventing unnecessary pee accidents), especially with multiple-member households and it also creates for a great opportunity to share a moment with your dog as you provide them their water directly to them, instead of them going to their water bowl on their own with little to no interactions with you at such a young age when sharing should be a top priority. Winter gear Make sure that your pup's body temperature is where it needs to be at all times. Even if you've gotten your pup way before the cold winter months, now is the perfect time to begin socializing them with their winter coat and boots, so that by the time the cold weather comes, you're all set and ready to face it together! Waist leash The umbilical cord exercise is one of my favourites and the best way it can be done it's with a waist leash. The exercise consists of walking around your home with your dog and rewarding them for choosing to join you on your chores and other activities so that they find pleasure in walking alongside you. This also helps minimize surprise potty training accidents and if you use a waist leash, you will be hands-free to do what you need around your home. Get one that comes with, or add to this a treat pouch for extra pet parent awesomeness. Short leash Start walking your dog on a short leash. By walking in and out of your home randomly, to help him or her get used to the idea of simply stepping out with you but comfortable coming back with you as you need. You can get a longer leash (often called a log line) as they get older and you feel as though you have more and more trust in them outside. Nail clipper/trimmer Probably the least fun item on the list, for both your pup and you, but a definite must. Grooming is inevitable, whether you practice your way to doing it for your dog their entire life, or if you hire someone. But one of the most challenging aspects of getting your dog groomed is their nails getting clipped. This is where you can do a lot to help prevent future discomfort, by socializing them to different types of nail clippers and trimmers. Consult with your future groomer, I'm sure that they'll be happy to share any tips that'll also help them do their job more easily!

Let's take a look at the top 5 best-selling feeding items on Amazon. It's interesting seeing what other pet parents are choosing and exploring how each item may/may not be beneficial for your dog or puppy and in which ways. let's take a look! #1. Dog Lick Pad with Suction Cups A great addition to your bag of dog items! Especially great for travel or when you want to take your dog on a road trip and want to make sure they can have a break licking the mat. Licky mats can be great to help keep your dog distracted when grooming, but they're not going to guarantee that your dog feels comfortable with every aspect of grooming and handling so keep that in mind! You can freeze and keep a couple of these in your freezer ready for when your dog or pup is having a hard time relaxing. I wouldn't recommend this as an activity for a bored/high-energy dog as they may not make much use of it or they may just try to chew it instead of licking. I like to use licky mats mostly to help young puppies settle and relax after exciting fun play or training activities. #2. Slow Feeder Bowl Perfect for slowing down a fast eater for sure! It'll also add a little extra fun to feeding time that regular feeding bowls don't provide. Are there better options available though? Is this a good solution for all dogs? If you've just brought home a really young puppy, this slow feeder can be a fantastic solution to encourage slow eating AND provide some mental enrichment. But there are definitely far better options that'll both slow down your dog's eating and help them burn some extra calories through a mental enrichment challenge! Particularly as your pup gets older, you might want to consider swapping this slow feeder for a combination of snuffle mats and food puzzles. #3. Food Puzzles Speaking of which! This is by far my favourite item on this list, as it shows us that pet parents are more and more interested in providing enrichment toys and mental stimulation outlets for their dogs at home. Puzzles are AMAZING at providing a light and fun outlet for your dog to get to use his or her brain to find each piece of their kibble (or even raw food!) while also slowing down how fast your dog eats which is a plus. Puzzles come in different types and levels of difficulty, but my tip would be to start with a more difficult one for your dog because you can always make it easier by helping your dog out. If you have a food puzzle that your dog finds too easy, you can always try wrapping it around in a towel to make it more engaging for your dog to find, and even in a box, for some extra snuffling fun! #4. Water Dispenser A water dispenser can be a great idea if you have a busy schedule and want to make sure your dog doesn't miss out on a single drop of water at home! There's one particular instance, however, where I would advise against using a water dispenser. During puppyhood! At this young age, you want to not only make sure that you're very closely monitoring your puppy's water intake to better manage potty training. But even more importantly, providing your puppy with food and water should be something that you get to do as they need it as a way to further bond with them and have them do amazing things with you! #5. Food Storage Container Combo There's nothing better than being organized in your life, AND in your pup's! Keeping your dog's food and treats in labeled containers can make it really easy for you (or someone dog sitting) to access. One more thing you can do is keep your dog's food in its original bag that it came in, to further keep it fresh and smelling stronger. When it comes to puppy training, you may also want to consider keeping some additional treats in jars and small containers located in different, common areas of your home so that you can easily reward good behaviour!