We added this question to tackle it in a deeper manner than you might think! You can and should be able to provide your dog with a basic command like Sit, Down, or Stay when you'd like. But no matter the command you're hoping they listen to, you first need to make sure you are listening to them, while also asking yourself why you're asking them to do it in the first place. Is your dog feeling stressed, nervous, overly excited, or perhaps worried and concerned? All of those are valid feelings and are there for a reason. Keeping that in mind if we are asking a dog to sit in circumstances where your dog is feeling that way, are we doing so in the hopes of getting them to just put that feeling aside? Or are we doing it to help them regulate their own emotions and start to feel a different way? Taking into consideration how our dogs feel when we're asking them to do something is the key to knowing when and whether we should ask for a command, no different than doing our best to understand other people, before expecting them to do things for us!

If you're just starting to wonder, chances are your pup is not ready yet. Off-leash training requires a lot of effort and a pup that has an easy and fun time choosing you over all distractions around them. Most pups are ready to begin off-leash training around 4-5 months. By then, you want to make sure that you've tested the waters in safe and controlled environments, where you can easily redirect your pup should he get distracted and lose focus in the exercise. Always add to the mix a long leash for extra safety and to ensure that when you call or need your pup to come to you that it happens, as you use that leash to more easily guide and encourage your pup to choose to come to you, in a fun way that they'll want to repeat no matter what.

There's really no need to constantly buy new dog toys when you know just how to make the most of the ones you have! Let's get to it: 1. Rotate your dog’s toys by keeping them stored away, keeping only 1 or 2 out and available for your dog. This will help keep your dog's toys interesting and avoid having to constantly buy new ones. Bringing out a toy from where they’re stored will also help get your dog’s attention as needed. 2. The toys that have little crevices and crannies like tug-and-pull toys can be used to hide kibble and treats inside of them, turning them into a mentally stimulating exercise as well. 3. Bring one or two toys with you out on your walks. There are so many distracting things going on during walks that a toy can help redirect your dog’s focus as well as give them an outlet should they ever feel tired, frustrated, or just in need of a fun break. 4. Have 2-3 Kongs lined up in the freezer, all with different flavours so you can take one out when it’s time for your puppy or dog to relax, take a break, and soothe as they lick and chew it. 5. Jam a small-sized toy or Kong through the bars of your dog’s crate and lightly line it with the flavour of a tasty treat or healthy peanut butter option. This will incentivize them to go inside their crate (do not close the door though) and spend time there in an enjoyable way.

Aside from coming home to a household that already has a dog, puppies or dogs will also find themselves in homes with other different types of pets. Such as cats, birds, reptiles, and rodents too. And there’s nothing more rewarding than having a home where you’re able to make all of your pets feel safe and cared for. Just simply look up Trizane Dog Services on Instagram! Reanna has worked with her dog Amelia, her cat Roux and her bird Zane, in order to have them all be comfortable around one another. But how did she do it? How does someone help socialize their dog with other household pets? Check out these tips: 1. Nurture each of your pet’s emotional cups, as if they were your only pet. By ensuring you meet all of your pet’s needs, they are much more likely to have an easier time thriving in your home. This goes double for your dog. Why? Because dogs really care to understand how you would like for them to best go about their daily interactions, in general. And so if you’ve also taken the time to fulfill your dog’s physical, mental, and social enrichment needs, then you will find him to be far more cooperative and understanding of the needs of everyone around. 2. Closely tied to the tip below, providing your dog with their daily dose of enrichment is the key to then associating their feeling of calm and fulfillment, to their environment, and that includes your other pets. There are two major reasons why a dog would struggle to come into a home with other pets. a) Your dog initially displays curiosity towards your other pets, but eventually, with time they become a type of outlet (whether directly or indirectly) to burn pent-up energy, or frustration (likely as a result of boredom) and/or to hopefully fulfill a particular itch or talent like chasing, or scavenging, or just overall wanting to play, interact and socialize. b) Insecurities, not knowing what to do. Although this could also stem from the point above, it’s likely more so due to the nature, past experiences, and demeanour of the dog in question. Not all dogs have the same response and feelings towards other animals. In this case, you will want to very slowly help your dog get there. Rushing is not an option. 3. Manage their environment when together and apart. Just as you would watch over 2-3 young children when they come over, you will want to provide as much supervision as possible. No matter how much you trust your pets to be okay together - particularly with very different animal types and sizes, it’s primordial that you always maintain a safe and watchful eye over all of their interactions, and of course go a step further by reinforcing wanted behaviour, on all ends!

You and I navigate and make sense of the world around with our voice. And so it’s normal that we try using our voice to guide and train our dogs as well. That said, a common mistake and inconsistency I run into with pet parents when they’re struggling with their dog or puppy lies within their usage of the word No, and their timing with it. And so I’ve put together a list of 10 reasons why I believe using the word No (or any type of word and sound to let your dog know they’ve done something you dislike) is hindering your communication and relationship with your dog. 1. Your dog doesn’t understand what No means. This isn’t to say that your dog doesn’t know the definition of the word, but rather doesn’t know what No means, and in what to do about it in the many scenarios where we’ll use it. Chances are that if you’ve gotten to the point where you’ve taught your dog to attribute a general meaning to the word No, that you have actually done more work on teaching them what you’d like for them to do instead, when they hear that word. 2. Your dog isn’t hearing you. If your dog isn’t actually sharing their attention with you, then you’re far better off not saying anything at all, and just helping guiding them away from that scenario where they’re not practicing desired behaviours. You want to save your voice and have it be the most rare but valuable treat that your dog hears when good things happen. That way your dog will be looking forward to hearing it. 3. Your dog is doing what they’re doing for good reason and confronting them can cause internal conflict. When your dog is exhibiting ann unwanted behaviour, it’s 100% of the time something your dog is doing (whether on purpose or by accident) as the reaction they feel the need to emply in that given scenario. And so what happens when you say No to their response is you’re essentially dismissing how they’re feeling and why. You need to instead guide them towards a different response, that you can then say Yes to, and that your dog will then have as an option to practice next time, and the time after that, if practiced enough. 4. You don’t know how your dog will respond. Similarly to the point above, if you don’t know how your dog will respond, you are better off not saying anything, and helping them walk away/take space instead. In dog training, we shape a behaviour by first having the dog naturally practice it, before adding the verbal cue to clearly begin creating the association. Because words have no meaning to dogs without a clear association, you can’t guarantee that your dog will ro won’t respond in the way you want. 5. When in doubt don’t act it out, but rather walk it out. Your dog doesn’t know why you’re saying No, what it means or what to do instead. And so, to avoid adding further confusion, avoid using the word No or any verbal cue that they don’t fully understand yet, and practice a different cue altogether, to get your dog’s mind to focus on something you’d rather they do instead. And the best way you can achieve this is also by simply walking away with your dog. Oftentimes all we want when we say No is to have our dogs step away and give that situation time and space, but yet we’ve never actually taken the time to teach and shape that behaviour first. 6. You are reinforcing the unwanted behaviour with your voice. You’re likely saying No because your dog is doing something you don’t like, which unfortunately also acts as a rienforcer. Especially with young dogs, attention of any kind towards any kind of behaviour is exactly that, attention and a reinforcer. So even though you are thinking that you are trying to deterr your dog from doing something and hopefully stop them, what your dog is receiving is plain attention, and attention that doesn’t really help them come up with a better response anyway. Watch how two dogs play with one another, and you will see that one waits for the other to to a particular action and in a particular way, before reinforcing it with their attention. 7. Say Yes instead. If you’ve attended puppy class, you’ve likely heard of the word Marker, which means a cue or sound that lets your dog know they’ve done something you like, and that a treat is also likely to follow, especially while they’re so young and still learning it all. And so all you have to do is wait for those moments where your dog is doing what you DO like, mark it with the word Yes and reward. If you find this difficult to do, in the face of situations where your dog struggles listening to you, this simply means that you need to practice in easier environments first, and the ones where you’re both feeling frustrated and the need to confront one another, are currently too difficult for you both. 8. Your dog has already heard you say it previously and hasn’t responded in the way you want. If you’re saying the word No to your dog regularly, chance are that word’s meaning is unfortunately non-existing, in your dog’s mind, since he/she is still doing the unwanted behaviour. You are better off making a weird or rare sound with your voice to get your dog’s attention, before guding them to do something else instead.

The most important part about a bite, or any unwanted behaviour, is figuring out why it happened in the first place. I firmly believe that a misunderstood action or behaviour leaves a lot of room for it to happen again, or for other symptoms to occur. This is why my immediate response to an unwanted behaviour is not how to stop it, but rather how to prevent it. When it comes to puppy biting, this is most commonly due to boredom or being overtired/overstimulated. Very few young puppies will bite for other reasons. Puppies play with their mouth, and it’s also how they can initiate play with one another. But if you want to stop and deterr your puppy from biting you, you will need to be one step ahead of him, by providing activities where he will get to burn both physical and mental energy. A mellow and relaxed puppy is not as likely to feel the need to bite. The only thing they will then feel the need to do is chew on a Kong-like toy and settle before resting. Start by being aware of the moment your puppy wakes up, as this is when energy start to build up. At this point you should be taking your puppy out for a potty break anyway, but after coming back inside, don’t let them roam free. Instead, go into a fun tug and pull game, and if your puppy happens to be very mouthy during play, you can use a towel or gloves. Puppies naturally play with their mouth, and given proper outlets, they will with time realize that there’s no actual need to use their mouth to instigate a game of any kind. Following the physical game, switch into a mental game like snuffling, or hiding your puppy’s food inside a towel. Mental games are not just great at burning brain energy, they’re also fantastic at helping your dog’s miind relax, slow down and think. All of which are critical in your dog’s development. Without these types of games you will end up with a pup that is left feeling overstimulated, not yet knowing how to self soothe. Following the mental game, provide your pup with a stuffed Kong and other toys that they can place any chewing energy towards. This should be leading to a nap. Once your puppy wakes up, rinse and repeat!

Similarly to puppies, older dogs can bite out of boredom, being overtired, overstimulated, among other reasons. You can redirect a bite with a toy, or a strong scent (like chicken, bacon, ham) however if you're worried your dog's behaviour having changed negatively, please consult with a reputable, positive reinforcement trainer so they can properly address the root of the issue, while helping you prevent future bites.

One of the most important lessons any dog should learn is to wait - to wait for everything and anything you are looking to provide for him. Whether it’s food, water, a toy, your touch, opening the door, putting the leash on, and so on, your dog is ready to wait if you simply expect him to and in turn wait while he figures out that you will reward his patience and trust. We often mistake a dog sitting down, as one that is waiting calmly. And even worse, the amount of time we expect our dog to remain in a seated position is usually no more than a couple of seconds. We need to teach your dogs to wait for as long as we require them to. This is how a dog can learn to no longer demand things but to instead trust and wait that you will let him know when it is that he will get something from you! This is the equivalent of giving your dog a kong and letting him figure out how to get the treat out. In this case, however, the treat is whatever you'd like to provide your dog with. Let your dog try barking at you, perhaps even howling or jumping. But the moment you obtain calmness after having said 'Sit', is the moment you can nurture that state of mind with the act of giving something to your dog. Then the next time, have him wait for longer. This is where the challenge lies for your dog, but the bigger the difficulty, the more rewarding it is once your dog figures out that calmness, relaxation, peace, and trust is the key to everything he has ever wanted. Always remember that waiting is something they are born knowing how to do. During puppyhood, the mother will indicate when feeding time begins and when it ends. She doesn't feed the pups because they ask her to, nor because it's a particular time or hour of the day that she follows. She simply decides when the right time to feed the puppies is, and then lets them know. This video is a good example of this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHBe0jT6S3U In the video, not only is the mother of the pups making them wait, but she is also making sure that they're waiting calmly, above all. This is something we simply do not practice at home, once we bring home our puppy, but we really should!

Start with the basics and keep your training sessions short. The ideal scenario with commands or any cues you do with your dog is that they work and feel as good for you AND your dog. If your dog enjoys doing them, he/she is more likely to want to repeat them in the future. Begin with sit, down, stay, and come. These are great first practiced at home first, prior to in a social setting. When you feel ready to do them outside of your home or in a more social environment, what you want to pay attention to is just how distracting or exciting that may be for your dog, as it can add difficulty to what you normally expect from your dog's behaviour. Whether you're practicing the basics or more advanced cue, if you would like for your dog to feel encouraged to repeat them with you, do your best to avoid using them anytime you dislike a behaviour your puppy is doing. Instead, practice distracting and redirecting them with a smell/toy instead until you have them feeling good and at ease once more. One other important element to consider is what the reward is. Dogs are happy doing things with you and for you but they also have preferences as to what they enjoy doing things for, as far as rewards go. If you're working in a distracting environment, and/or working on a new exercise, using a high value, rare treat that they don't get often is more likely to secure you the response you're hoping for, and later down the line you can work towards getting the same results but with lesser value treats.

If you’re familiar with my take on dog training, you probably aren’t shocked if I start this blog post off by saying that to fix this issue, we first need to understand why it’s happening in the first place. That said, food is something that sometimes even humans can’t control their impulses over. But for most pet parents facing this issue, let’s first dig into how we can prevent the unwanted behaviour before providing the alternatives, that will help manage it as well. To start, why a lot of dogs even feel the need to come anywhere close to the dinner table is not actually to get food, but rather to get attention. Thus meaning that if we’re able to get to the point where a dog isn’t at all bothered to get your attention at all during dinner time, we can then altogether avoid the issue of stealing food. How do we get to that point? Mental and physical enrichment of course! Very simply put, if dinner time is at 6 pm, and we want our dog to be relaxed by 5:30-6 pm, what should/do we need to do by around 5 pm to get there? Start with some fun tug-and-pull, and/or fetch games to drain some of that physical energy. Followed by some food puzzles and snuffle mats, or even some obedience training tricks to get that mental energy out of the way (using your dog’s meal). And perhaps top it all off with a quick little walk around the block to decompress. As you walk back in and begin serving dinner, bring outside of the freezer a delicious stuffed kong that’ll encourage your dog to remain calm and occupied, while you get started on your dinner. If this doesn’t help at all or perhaps just for a little bit, as you see your dog approach the table, this is where you will want to guide them back towards their bed or place of rest (with the leash as needed) and give them a few seconds before they settle on their own, which is when you will bring out a few small pieces of their treat to reward this waiting behaviour. It’s important to continue and practice doing this, even after we’ve done everything to prevent this scenario, because we’re still working on preventing on the behaviour of your dog making his way all the way to the table, while also showing them a new behaviour of waiting away and being rewarded for that. Eventually, combining both proper physical and mental stimulation outlets with ongoing guidance to avoid unwanted outcome will help your dog find joy in the new steps you’ve laid in front of them and start to forget the previous habit.